SOUTHERN TWISTED EDGE CAKE
The cake is semicircular, and the cake hem is charmingly twisted. This is thanks to the skillful hands of the baker forming the edges weaved up and down. The cake has an elegant and firm look being folded this way, and the stuffing will not spill out when fried. Its meaning and image takes after the old canals that our ancestors once built to prevent floods. This is properly where its name comes from. Additionally, they are called ‘pillow or fold cakes’ due to the act of folding cake hems. They are sometimes called ‘pillow cakes’ (by Northerners) or ‘fold cakes’ (by the Chinese) even though no one is sure of their origin. Even the spelling of ‘vạt’ or ‘vạc’ is not consistent. In the Central region of Phan Thiet, the shrimp twisted edge cakes are quite famous, and they are called ‘vạc’ by Southerners due to their familiarity with ‘c’ letter pronunciation. Moreover, the dish varies from regions, from salty to sweet stuffing and from cooking methods of steaming, frying or grilling. However, they are all semicircle cakes with folded edges. Steamed salty stuffed cake are listed on the dim sum menu of the Chinese sold together with small steamed dumplings, meat balls… Sweet cakes stuffed with peanut or coconut are often dip fried and served in ceremonies. Sometimes green bean stuffing is made for vegetarians. Freshly cooked cakes are delicious with crispy crust and soft stuffing that is blended with the pepper’s slightly sweet aroma.
Bac Lieu grilled twisted edge cake: These cakes carry a strange taste and are more elaborately cooked. The crust is made from wheat flour and tapioca starch mixed with oil. Its color is white and light yellow – a typical color of grilled cakes. They are well made only when the cake crust has many thin crispy layers inside. The aroma spreads all around. Ms. Nguyet, 55 years old, living in Binh Thanh District, a native of Bac Lieu, shares the recipe secret: “The most elaborate phase is dough kneading stage. Knead the dough out long and thin. Then fold it into 3 layers, and knead it out thin again. Repeat the same process 3 times.” Also, the dexterity is in the folding so that the edges of the cake are smoothly and beautifully fold. “In the past, these cakes were put in trays and brought to the bride’s home on her wedding day. Today electric ovens are everywhere yet nowhere are these cakes made anymore. Only the elderly are willing to spend time and effort making them,” she said.
Rach Gia fried twisted edge cake: The cake stuffing includes minced meat, cassava roots, chopped ear wood mushrooms, pepper, and green onions. All are stir-fried and added some tapioca starch to create adhesion and chewiness. The mixture is seasoned. The crust is made of wheat flour, water, fat or oil. The dough is kneaded until it is smooth; it is then put aside to rest. The stuffing needs to be soft and smooth so wheat flour is mixed only with fat or cooking oil. Then dough is evenly divided into small pieces. Roll these pieces into small flat circles each of which is thick in the middle and thin around the edge. Put the stuffing in the center, fold the dough, and tactfully twist the edges. Cakes are dip fried and left to drain oil.
Collected by Linh Trang
